AEON AU2 Setiawangsa Shopping Centre blog

How to authenticate Chanel Handbag

February 9, 2021

1. Check the Serial Numbers/Date Codes

Look inside the bag for a sticker with the serial number. The location of the serial number varies depending on the style of handbag and the year, but unless the bag is very vintage you should always find the date code inside. 

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It will either look like a sticker on the inside lining of the handbag, or it might be sitting atop a small leather tag sewn into the bag’s interior. Like everything else Chanel does, the date code needs to look the part – if you see a cheaply put-together date code with funky writing, this is a red flag. 

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Chanel serial numbers vary based on the year the bag was made. Check your serial number against the table below to see when your bag was made: 

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Caution: Presence of an authenticity card does not guarantee that the Chanel bag is authentic. Cards can be easily counterfeited.

The year the bag was made is determined by the amount of digits in the serial number, and the first digit(s) in that serial number. If your bag has 8 digits, it was produced between late 2005-current. 

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For 8 digit serial numbers, the year is determined by the first two digits (i.e. 24XXXXXX corresponds to late 2017-early 2018). If your bag has a 7 digit serial number, the year of production is determined by the first digit (i.e. 6XXXXXX corresponds to 2000-2002.) 

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If the serial number on a bag does not follow the Chanel formula or has more than 8 digits or less than 7, it is most certainly a fake. Chanel’s 2020 date code on their handbags is 30XXXXXX. If your handbag’s date code starts with 27XXXXXX, 28XXXXXX or 29XXXXXX, then it was made in mid/late 2019.  

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Of course, the Chanel formula is readily available information, so advanced counterfeiters could create a serial number that fits the table above. You need to examine the serial number sticker more carefully: it will never be a plain, boring sticker that looks out of place. 

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Authentic Chanel serial number stickers will contain a combination of CC logo markings, an ‘X’ shape cut into the tape to prevent removal without damage, and little reflective speckles in the tape. 

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Caution: If Chanel serial number sticker doesn’t contain either CC logo markings, an ‘X’ shape cut into the tape or iridescent speckles, it could very well be fake.

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If you looked everywhere inside the bag and still find no serial number, it’s not the end of the world! Remember, these are stickers that are constantly rubbing against the bag’s contents, and they can fall off and fade with use. It could also be a vintage authentic Chanel crafted prior to 1986.

Chanel bag serial number examples
Authentic Chanel Bag Date Codes

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Examples of authentic Chanel date codes. Note how they combine several unique identification and safety features: iridescent speckles, CC logos and ‘X’ scores on the plastic. They are usually found either on a small leather tab such as in the bottom left example, inside of an interior pocket or tucked into a corner of the bag’s interior.

2. Examine the Stitch Quality and Stitch Count

Authentic Chanel is not only the highest grade materials, but also meticulous craftsmanship. The stitching should be flawless, with no loose threads, bumps or otherwise any irregularities. 

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Chanel bags also feature high stitch count: in most cases there should be 10 or more stitches per edge of the diamond quilting. This keeps the bag sturdy and also prevents puffiness from the leather. Exact stitch count can vary with the type of Chanel bag, but if you see unusually low stitch count, it is likely a fake.

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This is not a golden rule, however. You will come across some authentic Chanel quilted handbags with less than 10 stitches per diamond edge – typically smaller bags or styles different from 2.55.

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Caution: If the Chanel bag has less than 10 stitches per edge of the diamond quilting, the bag may be a counterfeit.

Authentic Chanel quilting and stitching

3. Inspect the Hardware

Chanel’s hardware is in a class of its own, giving the bag an ultra-luxurious aura. This is where a lot of counterfeiters come up short as they cannot replicate Chanel’s quality. 

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Even the counterfeiters who are able to use higher quality materials and construction – counterfeit bags known as “super fakes” – they often lack the attention to detail applied to authentic Chanel bags. Here is what to look for. 

Back of Chanel Bag's Lock Flat Head Screws

Open the flap and inspect the back of the CC lock plate. If you confirmed that the bag is vintage based on the serial number, you shouldn’t be surprised to find flathead screws on the lock plate. 

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The more modern Chanel bags feature proprietary star-shaped screws. If you see philips-head screws, (the ‘X’ shaped ones) you’re dealing with a fake. Chanel never uses philips-head screws in its hardware.

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Also be sure that the color of the bag’s hardware (i.e. silver, gold) matches the CHANEL stamping inside the bag. 

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If you see a “Made in Paris” stamp, the bag is fake. Chanel only uses “France” and “Italy” for its “Made In” stamping. 

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It is normal to see “CHANEL” and “PARIS” etched into the hardware, however, and counterfeiters will frequently mistake this for the “Made in” stamp.  Likewise, if you do not see any “Made in” stamp, beware that the bag is likely a counterfeit! 

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Caution: If a Chanel bag contains a “Made in Paris” stamp, it is fake.

Pictured: Close up images of Chanel’s quintessential leather intertwined chain link strap. The leather should be expertly stitched, with no uneven edges or bumps. With Chanel, the beauty isn’t just the silhouette, but also in the finest details. 


4. Make Sure that Cs Overlap Properly on the CC Logo

Authentic Chanel logo locks and stitching

Check that the C’s overlap properly, that they have equal width, and flat edges. 

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Confirm that the right ‘C’ overlaps the left ‘C’ at the top, and the left ‘C’ overlaps the right one at the bottom (pictured above). The CC lock is centered both vertically and horizontally on its leather flap, if the placement looks off, it is a fake. 

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The edges of the ‘C’s are flat on real Chanel bags while if you see rounded edges, it’s a fake. If you see a stamp on the CC lock, it was made in France; if there is no stamp, then the bag was made in Italy. Be sure that the stamp is clear and pristine and fakes will rarely have legible stamps. 

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Fun fact: Each ‘C’ is equal in width on authentic Chanel bags, and is also equal to the space in between the ‘C’s.

5. Look at the Quilting Pattern and Symmetry

The majority of fake bags you will come across is the quilting pattern. Real Chanel bags are flawless in terms of the quilted diamonds’ shape, symmetry and how they line up. 

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On Chanel 2.55 Flap bags, check the rear pocket of the bag: with authentic 2.55’s, the quilting pattern on the back pocket will line up perfectly with the pattern of the bag itself. 

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It is very common for counterfeit Chanel bags to mess up the alignment of the diamond quilting between the flap and the rest of the bag. If you see a blatant misalignment, you can fully disregard the bag as a fake. 

Authentic vs Fake Chanel Quilting Comparison

You can tell a real Chanel bag from a fake by examining the quilting. Left is a fake bag: the quilting is very obviously not aligned between the pocket and the bag. Right is an authentic bag: the stitching pattern looks seamless from the pocket to the bag.

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Caution: If the quilting pattern on the bag’s back pocket doesn’t line up perfectly, the bag is highly likely to be fake.

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As the bag ages and is worn, the leather will tend to relax slightly and the quilting may not line up perfectly. A bag with this slight imperfection may still be authentic, so be sure to check other areas.

6. Analyze the Zippers Closely

Chanel uses different kinds of zippers depending on the bag, but the most notable types are Lampo, the DMC, the YKK, the eclair zipper, the triple ‘C’ in a circle and an unmarked zipper for very vintage Chanel bags.

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Be sure to open and close the zipper and get a feel for the quality. It should zip smoothly and seamlessly, a luxurious experience, like all other aspects of an authentic Chanel bag.

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Caution: If you see a zipper that looks like it came from a sweater on a supposedly real Chanel 2.55, this is more than likely a fake.

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Authentic Chanel Lampo zippers

Lampo zippers that you can typically find on authentic Chanel bags of various types. Check the underside of the zipper pulley mechanism to see the brand. 

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